FROM SEED TO DYE


With support from Nämnden för Hemslöjdsfrågor.


Ongoing project

May – October 2020


At Capellagården -School for craft and design we are striving towards finding sustainable methods and processes for making textiles. As a part of that Linda have initiated the project "From seed to dye" where we cultivate a number of dye plants and foraging wild ones in the local area. Among them indigo, woad, marigold and many others. We are slowly building up a library of dye plants in our garden and alos documenting the natural habitat of plants that surrounds us.


This autumn you will be able to take part of the result and learn more in our public garden. The dyeing and cultivation project will be exhibited in Sept 2020 together with a catalogue – The dyers journal.


The project is initiated by Linda Zetterman and is a collaboration in between her and Sara Carlsson and the students from the Textile and Garden classes at Capellagården. Read more about Capellagården at; www.capellagarden.se


Below some process pictures from the process and work with cultivation and dyeing.




#indigo #persicariatinctoria #woad #marigold #frånfrötillfärg #fromseedtodye #cultivation #sustainability #textile #naturaldyes #naturalcolours #slowtextiles #textil #naturligfärgning #vejde #lindazetterman #nämndenförhemslöjdsfrågor

21nd of August. The flower bed behind the ceramic and textile workshops. Soon to be harvest!

The nursed plants are placed in the flower bed, May 2020.

WALNUT / VALNÖT – Juglans regia

We are blessed with a walnut tree outside our dyeing studio. Every second year it gives a lots of nuts. You can dye with both the green shell as well as the hard brown. The green shell starts to oxidize so always keep them in cold water or in the freezer to keep them fresh. Walnut gives a variety of brown shades.

The walnuts and the walnut leafs are great sorces of pigment and you can create a big variation of colours. To the left; Dyed on wool and organic cotton. To the right; Silk mordanted with alun, alun & copper and no mordant. All colours are dyed on silk. This is a description underneath your image.

VAU / FÄRGRESEDA - Reseda luteola L.



VAU/WAU

Vau is an old dye plant. It gives durable yellow color on  wool, silk, linen and cotton.

Early examples of the use of vau in Sweden are demonstrated by finds from the 400s AD. It is common in south part of Sweden where it grows in the wild and in gardens.


A Vau call! The neighbours wanted to get rid of some vau in their garden. This year seems to be really good climate for the vau. It grows wild and in the fruit garden.

Drying vau in the air. The colour becomes more vibrant and stronger from using dyed vau instead of fresh. We used the whole plant except the roots in our vats.

Vau and sorrel in combination with iron, alkaline, acid and copper mordants.

POPPY / VALLMO – Papaver

POPPY

The poppy family has around 100 different species originating in Europe and Asia. It self-sows easily and on Öland it often grows freely next to or in cultivated fields.


Poppy

We soaked and simmered the petals. Experiments made with copper and iron mordants to achieve different pink shades. 

WELD / WOAD / VEJDE – Isatis tinctoria

WELD / WOAD

Weld or Woad "Isatis tinctoria"  is an annual or biennial herb. It has been used as a dye plant since long back in history. In Sweden and Europe weld was used mainly to get blue colours. When we started to import indigo from India it soon took over the market. Woad contains less indigotin and its hard to get darker colours. But you can also use the flowers and the seeds to dye yellow and green shades. The weld below was planted last year. We now have planted new weld  in our flower beds. Next year we will leave them and save the sees.



#woad #vejde #naturligfärgning #naturaldyeing #dyeplants #fromseedtodye #frånfrötillfärg #lindazetterman #textile #sustainabletextiles #capellagården



Harvesting woad. An amazing plant. You will get blue form the leaves, yellow from the flowers and green from the seeds. 

LUPINE / LUPIN – lupinus


  1. LUPINES "Lupinus" 


The leaves of the the lupines gives a florescent bright yellow colour. The flowers gives a faint tone of yellow. The lupines grows wild in ditches and meadows. The flowers bloom in different shades of pink and purple.


These lupines had "moved in" to our flower bed located behind the dyeing workshop. Be careful with how you handle them since the lupines are invasive and threaten the survival of meadow flowers. Still so beautiful to watch and also to use as dye pigment for textiles.


#lupines #fromseedtodye #naturaldyes #lindazetterman #adyersjournal #pigment #sustainability #cultivation #capellagården #textil #textile #naturaldyeing #pigment

 

Test dyeing with different mordants on habotai silk.


SORREL / ÄNGSSYRA - Rumex acetosa

SORREL

Sorrel "Rumex acetosa". This is a common plant in grassland habitats. It is rich in vitamin C and can be used as herb and in sallads. You can dye with both the flowers and the root. The colours can be changed by using different mordants and shift pH. See above.



#ängssyra #sorrel #rumexacetosa #naturaldyeing #dyeplants #fromseedtodye #frånfrötillfärg #lindazetterman #textile #sustainabletextiles #capellagården



Sorrel "Rumex acetosa"Here the flowers are dyed together with copper, iron, and bicarbonate.


INDIGO – Persicaris tinctoria

First dip in natural indigo dyed on habotai silk.


#frånfrötillfärg #fromseedtodye #indigo #indigoferatinctoria #naturaldyes

Indigo in combination with shibori techniques. From  my Pattern workshop summer 2020.


#indigo #naturaldyeing #dyeplants #fromseedtodye #frånfrötillfärg #lindazetterman #textile #indigoworkshop #mönstramedfärg #workshop #capellagården


Dyeing with fresh persicaria tinctoria lleafs. By using only leafs and salt and rubbing the leafs together with the material. This method gives turquoise hues. Not the most colour fast technique but a fun and easy way to extract and develop indigo pigment and dye.


#indigo #naturalindigo #persicaristinctoria #naturaldyeing #dyeplants #fromseedtodye #frånfrötillfärg #lindazetterman #textile #sustainabletextiles #capellagården

INDIGO

Indigo "Persicaris tinctoria"Also called Japanes Indigo is used mostly in Japan. The pigment is extracted from the leaves by using a dry compost and fermentation process called 'sukoumo'. This year we will try different cultivation and extracting methods and also different dyeing processes using only natural indigo from our cultivation.


#indigo #naturalindigo #persicaristinctoria #naturaldyeing #dyeplants #fromseedtodye #frånfrötillfärg #lindazetterman #textile #sustainabletextiles #capellagården


.


Beginning of July 2020. The indigo thrives. So far it has been enough sun and rain to maintain a good  climate. The soil here is rich in lime stone and sand.   The indigo prefers less alkaline soil so we mix with other flowers that can help out.